Cleaner Greener Beauty Explained!
The Skinsmith | 23rd January 2023
Don’t labels just mean what they say?
We are now quite rightly more focused than ever before on eco-consciousness and looking to reduce our carbon footprint. It stands to reason that corporations and businesses are taking note. Huge quantities of buzz words are banded around with regards to the beauty industry, words that sound healthy and aspirational such as clean, natural, green, eco and organic. These words make us feel like we’re doing the right thing and in turn this makes us feel good about ourselves which can’t be bad can it? Well, yes and no, it’s only not bad if it’s true and considering that regulation around the use of marketing words in the beauty industry is a little loose to say the least, it’s up to us to check out what various terms mean.
Numerous high street brands market their products as “natural” or “organic” when there is actually very little natural and organic about them. The UK law makes it ok for skincare companies to claim their products are organic when only a very small percentage of the ingredients are sourced organically.
It's all about being conscious of what each of these words mean when applied to the industry and understanding how certifications work. It is these various certifications that really tell us what we are buying and as a result how planet friendly we are being. Understanding the code to decipher exactly what it means when products are described as clean, natural, green, eco and organic is not always straightforward, these terms are subjective and not regulated so it’s up to the consumer to research the specifics to as high a level as they feel is important to them.
What do each of the eco-conscious labels mean in the UK?
Green
The term “green beauty” isn’t regulated, we need to get used to looking out for more specific claims about the product such as when a company describes its packaging as green, it may mean that they are sourced, produced and packaged in an ethical and sustainable way. Eminence uses product boxes that are recyclable, made from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified material and printed with eco-friendly inks. Plastic containers are made from recyclable plastic wherever possible and packing chips are made of 100% biodegradable corn that dissolves harmlessly in water. A green beauty product is conscious of its role in the protection of the environment during the manufacture, use and disposal of the product. Generally organic, ecological, recyclable, and energy-saving products are called green products.
Clean
Like the term “green beauty”, “clean beauty” is not regulated, it is very closely connected to greenness as it refers to the use of clean nontoxic ingredients. Clean products tend to avoid animal by-products and use plant-based ingredients which is better in general for the planet. Raising and processing livestock takes a huge toll on the environment, it depletes water, natural resources and habitats and generates more greenhouse gas emissions than almost any other sector. Harmful chemicals are not only bad for our health but also for the environment, just imagine what happens when left over toxic products are chucked into landfill or find their way into the sea – it’s the planet that suffers.
Cruelty-Free
Cruelty free refers to cosmetics and make-up not tested on animals, so cruelty free products are those not tested on animals in any form through the creative and production processes. The EU has banned animal testing since 2013 and any products sold in the UK have not been tested on animals. While this may make us feel secure in the knowledge that our products are cruelty free this is not always the case. Some products sell to countries that make it mandatory to test on animals before products are made available to humans so by association their products are not cruelty free even if the particular batch sold in the UK has not been tested on animals. In order to be truly cruelty free there must be not company involvement in the testing of products on animals. Eminence proudly refuses to conduct, commission, pay for, or allow tests on animals for our ingredients, formulations or products. Beauty Without Bunnies is a great place to search for cruelty free cosmetics companies. Eminence also has a large vegan friendly product line to address the needs of vegan clients.
Sustainable
Sustainable refers to products that meet our needs while having the least negative impact on people or the environment. Companies that sell sustainable products have made every effort to do the right thing from where they source their packaging from to the ingredients they use. Eminence is totally committed to sustainability in every way possible, electricity usage is offset with wind power credits and solar panels on the roof of its offices and office space is designed as an eco-alternative building. Eminence also plant a tree for every product sold through Forests for the Future™, it’s totally comprehensive in its approach to sustainability.
Organic
It is legal in the UK to market products as “organic” even if only a tiny percentage of the ingredients are organic. It all comes down to certification, The Soil Association www.soilassociation.org is the UK’s largest organic certification body. It ensures all formulations bearing their certification follow organic standards both in terms of ingredients and the production process. COSMOS is a standard signature for consumer guarantee for organic and natural cosmetics. The cosmos standard defines the criteria that companies must meet to ensure consumers that their products are genuine organic or natural cosmetics produced to the highest feasible sustainability practices. Eminence is certified by USDA Organic usda.gov, a leading global standard committed to recognising organic agriculture, Demeter demeter.net which is a certifying body for products from Biodynamic Agriculture. All products are subject to a strict and comprehensive verification process. Eminence is also a member of Organic Trade Association canada-organic.ca which is a membership-based business association that promotes and protects organic trade.
Natural
Natural skincare products are a little easier to define, most people would agree that natural skincare products are free of synthetic dyes, fragrances, parabens, sulphates and phthalates. Many natural products also use ingredients that are naturally sourced or used use botanical ingredients that have therapeutic effects on the skin. The absence of synthetic, toxic chemicals or artificial colours means products rely on the healing properties found naturally in plants which are ingredients humans have been using for centuries. So natural means the product contains ingredients that are grown or cultivated rather than those synthesised from petrochemical ingredients. Natural and oleochemical ingredients are less likely to cause skin irritation or allergic reactions.
Best ways to tell if a product is Truly “Green”
Taking a minute to take stock of all the various terminology it seems that while there is a bit of wading through jargon to get to the really meaningful stuff it’s not that difficult. Setting out below what we really need to pay attention to in order to get to the heart of the matter and it’s clear there are a few areas we need to be paying particular attention to.
The Certifications
Certifications are there to do all the hard labour when it comes to deciding whether a company walks the walk as well as talks the talk!! These certifications include Soil Association, Leaping Bunny, B-Corp, Fair Trade, Biokontroll, Demeter, USDA Organic and Organic Trade Association among others. Many of these certification processes are rigorous, but not all are perfect. Do a little digging to see which ones you're most confident in, and beware of dodgy-sounding or unknown certifications. Eminence is very proud to be a Certified B Corporation®. B Corps are a new type of company that uses the power of business to solve social and environmental problems. B Corp™ certification is to business what Fair Trade certification is to coffee or LEED certification for a building. They meet the highest standards of overall social and environmental performance, transparency and accountability. It is also a member of USDA Organic and the Organic Trade Association in Canada recognising its commitment to producing organically farmed products. Very few companies conform to the strict regulations imposed by Demeter certification, this is another level of organic, some describe it as organic on steroids!! Not literally of course as they wouldn’t let steroids anywhere near their products! Eminence has a range of biodynamic products, The Skinsmith stock Eminence Facial Recovery Oil which is a toning and hydrating oil created with biodynamic herbs which is suitable for all skin types but particularly sensitive and ageing skin. Celebrities love this product which has the nickname “liquid gold”!!
The ingredients
Take a moment to study the labels of the product you are buying, Ingredients like proteins, vitamins and natural preservatives may have scientific-sounding names but for the most part you should be able to understand what’s on the ingredients list. Not all synthetic ingredients are bad but in general naturally sourced ingredients are gentler to your skin. Plant based alternatives for retinol for example are much better for those with sensitive skin as it won’t cause the irritation that the traditional products will but still have impressive results. Eminence Bamboo Firming fluid contains natural retinol alternative derived from chicory root and tara tree to smooth and firm the skin as well as reducing the appearance of fine lines. It is important to note that sometimes a synthetic that’s been created in a lab is more sustainable and ethical than sourcing it from the environment, it is therefore important to understand the providence of your natural products. To achieve effective results without consumer risk high quality ingredients are necessary for a high-quality product. Many petrochemical products like mineral oil present a low level of toxicity to users, this toxicity is further increased when products are aerosolised and inhaled and can even be a contributing factor to cancer. Most bio-based products are much safer and higher quality.
The Packaging
It’s not always possible for packaging to be entirely biodegradable or free of plastic but that doesn’t mean a company can’t try. Look for packaging that’s sustainable, recyclable, uses soy-based inks or dyes and recycled material. A green beauty company will be proud to explain their eco-friendly credentials right there on the product.
Terminology
Green beauty companies will be more than happy to share details of their planet-saving efforts with their customers. Look for products that explicitly state what ingredients they’ve left out, like petroleum free and avoid generic terms such as “fragrance.
Look for labels like vegan, cruelty-free, sustainable, organic and natural. These terms aren’t always regulated but a green beauty company won’t be shy about explaining just what is sustainable about their products. When it comes down to it the ingredients never lie.
Mission Statement
As described under terminology a truly green beauty company will want to shout its credentials from the rooftop and won’t be in any way bashful about doing so!! Many green beauty companies will have a mission statement clearly setting out their good intentions in black and white (or green) making it easy for us consumers to really understand what they’re all about. To give a perfect example here is Eminence’s beautiful mission statement:
EMINENCE MISSION
To enhance your wellness naturally through extraordinary products and extraordinary service.
EMINENCE PROMISE
Our promise is to deliver happiness and extraordinary service by providing the healthiest and most effective skin care products. We are committed to protecting the future of our planet through our green practices - We plant a tree for every product sold.
It’s right there, as I said in black and white (and green)!!
So, there it is! A brief as possible round up of wading through the complexities of greenness and organicity when it comes to skincare. Understanding what terms actually mean and which certifications are legitimate makes being environmentally responsible much easier to achieve which is good for you, good for Eminence and good for the environment!
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